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excellent and thanks for your input ,, I sometimes think this forum is getting stagnant ,,different opinions and info is what keeps it alive ,, I like exhaust tubing for reasons you mentioned and dislike it for reasons you mentioned ,, controlling corrosion would seem to be major problem ,, I am not familiar with product you mentioned but sounds good to me,,i could even use square tube and clamp it flat on bottom of car but didn't want to deal with rust ,, thanks for the info

I would like to pose another question to our members that I have been thinking about,,with dissimilar materials throughout the system .. iron block , aluminum heads , copper pipe , aluminum radiator ..(or maybe steel pipe and copper / brass radiator ) is there a problem with electrolysis between the various parts ?? will one of the corrosion inhibitors control that ,, how about the sacrificial anode that screws in or the radiator cap with same ,, I think it is zinc ,, any experience with that ?

I agree , let's keep this forum alive with input ! On that product, go to their web sit ( have not figured how to link) RMI25.com for there info. On a Buick forum those guys us this additive and report good results ! On the long term after a chance to use it I will report how it does .

I agree, let's keep this thing going.

I am wanting to know what to use, my car has been setting for a very long time, and the old original exhaust pipe is rusting through.

I would love to have a "permanent" pipe fix, but I suppose I will go back with the steel or galvanized pipe

first ,DOUG . I could not find that website for corrosion inhibitor ,, but I was looking for RM ONE 25 ,, which just gets me Suzuki dirt bikes ,, looking now at your post could it be RM I (EYE) 25 ? I also tried buick forums .. there are a lot of them ,, will try again...now deciding to add some spice to this ,, I was intrigued by JAY'S post about using PVC for pipes ,, sounded like it might be something ,, light , cheap , easy to work with ,readily available , self insulating ,, but my google search says it starts to lose strength at 140 degrees ,, hence the sag he had with , and I once tried building a shelter with it ,, the sun made it sag ,, but I decided to look further .CPVC is up to 200 but also like PVC is not really rated for it ,, but PEX pipe is rated for 200 degrees at 80 PSI for use in hydronic heating ,, given that such ratings are conservative it would seem it could be used at 220 degrees at 20 PSI ,,, probably ,, if anyone REALLY feels like experimenting ,, I am not that brave but kudos to JAY for being outside the box ,, and he does have a history of using it for a while now

okay I found the website and here is link ;

http://www.rmi25.com/

lot of info on the site ,, didn't read all of it but it is interesting

My son and I tried some pcv material in one of our projects and weren't impressed. I was trying to remember what the issues were, but I think we had problems with the connections not holding under heat. Wasn't a very scientific trial, tried it, failed, ,threw it out and tried something else.
Great way of developing a moderately large pile of junk....................

Ok now after some deep thinking on cooling line material I have decided that 304 SS is the answer, at least for me .This comes after buying a bunch of 1 3/4" exhaust tubing !! As far as cost goes that is not much more all said and added up.
Knowing the the better choice I made will give me a relief of a maintenance issues.( anybody need tubing for some exhaust headers ? ) from time to time we all might think the engineer in us have the right answers, but really they (engineers) build prototypes for conformation of design. Building a Corv8 or in my case Corv6 as in V6 Turbo , needs some thought on durability !

After reading all these comments about cooling line material, it helps me appreciate the rear cooling on my conversion. Just two short standard radiator hoses from the radiator to the engine.

Then there's the issue of 20 feet of heater hose running through the tunnel to the small heater core under my console. If that ruptures then I've got hot water spraying my electrical work and maybe worse. I think it's about time to install 304 or 316 SS lines to the heater before it's too late.

Although slightly off topic for me, this discussion has helped to identify a problem that I need to correct soon. Hopefully more members will weigh in with their thoughts on cooling line material.

I ended up using 1 1/2 inch copper , but I want to share my experiment . since pipe is sized by nominal ID , not OD , 1 1/2 black ABS waste water pipe has an ID close to that of the copper OD which is thin wall . I found that cutting the ABS lengthwise (I built a jig and use circular saw ) it will expand easily and slip over the copper ,, it is light ,cheap , and my experiments so far show it has good insulating properties (the reason I did it ) . beating on it with a hammer shows it to be tough ,and it only adds about 3/8 to OD ( it is about 3/16 wall ) .. car is not yet on the road so real testing still ahead ,, but if anyone is having heat from their pipes coming up thru the floor this might work for you ..