Front radiator and fan shroud.

Systems, Types and Experiences

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Goodman Alabama » Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:43 pm

Richard,
I keep re-thinking the cooling system... I am pretty certain the radiator, fan and ducting will be fine, and I went with a Dedenbear electric pump to gain some interior space. The Dedenbear design has the pump motor running vertically, most pump motors are horizontal. The fan is controlled by a thermostatic switch, relay, etc. The pump I wasn't exactly sure what I wanted to do. I wasn't sure about a thermostat, but there is one in the housing right now. All this re-thinking got me thinking about a digital pump and fan controller:

http://daviescraig.com.au/product/lcd-e ... 2-24v-8001

I assume with this controller, fully programmable, I wouldn't need a thermostat, maybe just a restrictor plate of some sort. The above part isn't cheap, but it seems like a very good solution for my concerns. I think I mentioned I have not driven the car yet... still some things to complete, I am looking at the end of May for completion, at least that's my goal. Have a little bit of adjusting/trimming of the coolant lines where they come up from the floor passing through the trunk, and have to get a throttle cable/linkage. I'm finishing up bodywork and painting jambs now, also finishing up wiring for the rear power windows. Need to adjust doors and glass, put seats/carpet/dash in, and minor stuff to complete. Oh yeah, rebuild the front suspension too! Good thing I am retired, I have the time...

Just got an email from them regarding the thermostat "When using the EWP controller, you may not need a thermostat, however in some cases a thermostat is needed but we recommend putting 2x5mm holes in it to allow coolant flow. "
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Dayton Parkville » Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:52 am

Richard Miller wrote:John I wonder if you are using a thermostat ?


yes, a 165 degree unit
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Richard Miller » Wed Apr 11, 2018 10:40 am

our own Paul Beck is using digital controllers , I don't recall what brand ..he seems to be happy with them .. I don't like the idea of slowing the pump .I worry that could lead to hot spots in the cylinder heads where the flow might be low ,, I think fan control is a good idea ,, I had overcooling problems with my first setup , used a 160 t-stat and in cold weather , as long as I was moving ,, temp was right on the stat at about 160 ,, my engine didn't like that and wouldn't clean up until about 175 ,, in mixed driving it would warm up when idling stopped , and then cool back down when I got moving again ,, I would like to get it to run at a constant temp ,, the controllers sound like they might work towards that, I had an overheat that I have mentioned here ,, turned out to be a stuck t-stat ,, I am thinking about a bypass that would open at a set temp to bypass the stat and allow full flow . I think maintaining full flow to all engine parts but controlling the temp narrowly would be ideal ,, so still interested in all that others do in this area ,, thanks all for info
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Dean Gemberling » Mon Jul 30, 2018 6:48 am

John,

What are the dimensions of your fuel cell?

From whom did you purchase it?

Thanks,

Dean
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Columbus, Georgia

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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Doug Andress » Thu Jan 03, 2019 6:37 pm

Hey Adam , been off the site for a while, thanks for sharing your pic's .we are in the New Year now and time get back on winter projects. Well for me at least !
Are going to fill in the wheel wells ?
Doug Andress
Madeira Park B.C.
'65 / Turbo Buick V6
325-4l Transaxle, 3.36 ratio
Front mounted radiator
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby 66VairV8 » Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:16 pm

Has anyone considered Evans coolant? I think it runs a little hotter but can tolerate much higher temps. Surface tension is also said to be lower then conventical coolant.
I have a unique issue; the MSD fuel injection readout is about 15 degrees lower then a separate digital readout on a stand alone gauge. The pickups are on either side of the thermostat with a bleeder on top of the housing. I am installing some Speedhut analog gauges to see if there is any difference.
Jeff
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Richard Miller » Sat Jan 05, 2019 11:35 am

I was inspired to do a little web browsing about evans coolant ,, opinions are all over the place ,, some love it .. a few had bad experience with it ,,I was looking for some testing and found this link : https://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm ,, water has a higher specific heat ,, almost double ,, which is a reflection of its ability to transfer heat ,, getting the heat to the radiator and out of the car is my main goal ,, I am reluctant to try it ,, so how about you do it and let us know ??seriously there are a number of people who like it but no hard consensus ,, curious about the different readings between your temp gauges ,, could just be difference in calibration ,, have you tried swapping side for side to see if the difference follows ,, if it does it is the gauge and sender ,, if it doesn't then one side of the engine runs hotter ,, could be the case ,, I have read that coolant actually pulses back and forth between sides and that stock water pumps favor one side ..you will note that aftermarket pumps often pride themselves on equal flow ..anyone on the forum using evans care to share your experience?
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Richard Miller » Sat Jan 05, 2019 2:12 pm

I found following on Stewart Components website :

UNEQUIVOCALLY WATER IS THE BEST COOLANT! We recommend using a corrosion inhibitor comparable to Prestone Super Anti-Rust when using pure water. If freezing is a concern, use the minimum amount of antifreeze required for your climate. Stewart Components has extensively tested all of the popular "magic" cooling system additives, and found that none work better than water. In fact, some additives have been found to swell the water pumps seals and contribute to pump failures.

In static cooling situations, such as quenching metal during heat treating, softening agents (sometimes referred to as water wetting agents) will allow the water to cool the quenched part more evenly and quickly. The part will cool quicker, and the water will heat up faster. However, an automotive cooling system is not static. In fact, the velocities inside a cooling system are comparable to a fire hose forcing coolant against the walls of the engine's water jackets. If the softening agents actually aided in cooling the engine, the temperature of the coolant as it exited the engine would have to be higher because it would have absorbed more heat.
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby pbeck » Sat Jan 05, 2019 10:52 pm

I had to do a lot of rethinking and replumbing when I switched to a 5.3 LS engine. The LS has two inlets and two outlets, a pair on each side. I wanted to get more space on the front of the engine, so I did away with the stock water pump which also removes the thermostat (which is located on the return side of the water pump). I'm using a Meziere remote electric water pump, which I mounted on top of the front cross member. I run two -12AN lines from the water pump (routing them in the tunnel) and the run two -12AN lines back up to the cross member where they feed into a "Y" and then out a 1 1/2" return to the radiator. The radiator is fully shrouded, leaning back at the top, with 2- 2400 cfm puller fans, ducting through the area where the trunk floor used to be. I'm using a programmable water pump/fan controller from Davis/Craig. You can set the desired temperature (sending unit in the left front head) and it cycles the water pump to keep the temperature in about a +/-5 degree range. I rarely hear the fans kick on. The system also runs on after the key is shut off (even after the master switch is off) to reduce heat soak. I've not had any issues with it so far.
I've actually given a lot of thought to switching over to Evans Coolant. It seems to offer some pretty impressive benefits. I really like the fact that it is not supposed to build pressure like traditional antifreeze. 3 to 4 psi as opposed to 13 to 18 psi or higher. Supposedly because it doesn't boil / produce steam. The biggest issue is the price. The existing coolant must be drained and then an Evans Flush agent is run through and then refilled with Evans Coolant. I figure my system contains around 4 gallons. 4 gallons of their flush agent is around $120. Then 4 gallons of coolant at around $50 a gallon makes it a pretty expensive trial. (Yeah, I know, I've made some other sketchy purchases, but I think I'll wait for someone else to be the official tester on this one !)
To quote someone else ............."just my $.02".
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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Postby Richard Miller » Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:30 pm

hey Paul thanks for post ..this is a subject of interest to me and I keep reading various forums on it ,, seems that opinions are pretty divided all over ,, I am curious about your pump .. I assume it has a minimum speed that it runs ? that is , on cold start I think it must circulate some coolant ? on subject of pressure I have a pressure gauge and a thermometer in the upper pipe going to radiator ,,I started car and watched as it warmed up ,, pressure rise starts immediately ,,I was interested to find that although I have a 16 lb cap pressure first rose to 21 lb before it released and it dropped back to 15 ,, also found that with the thermometer in the pipe up front reading 200 before fans kicked on that autometer gauge with sending unit in manifold was showing 180 ,, I have seen some people asking about using sealant on sending units ,, I did ,, I wonder if that could be creating enough additional resistance to create a lower reading ? I don't want it weeping which the "no sealant " camp seems to live with ..
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