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Posted: **Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:47 pm**

Richard,
Sealant on the threads could cause the sending unit to send a signal that's not accurate. Some sending units (one wire of course) use the threaded section to ground the unit. The temperature reading (IIRC) is a result of resistance.

One of the issues with my engine is that I use two temperature senders. The water pump / fan is controlled from a switch in the left front cylinder head. I moved the temperature gauge sender to the right rear cylinder head. There is about 10 degrees difference in readings so it was a little eye opening when I first saw it. I've since learned that the difference is common and isn't a problem.

My water pump controller has a digital display that indicates when the pump is running. I can also sort of track it by watching the temperature gauge cause the temp will drop immediately.

I'm currently in the process of switching from carburated to a Terminator EFI from Holly. Their ECU is supposed to tie into a temperature sensor and now I'm not sure where to put it. I think I'll try to tie in into an existing switch. May or may not be possible or advisable. Guess I'll find out.

Posted: **Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:20 pm**

Sorry for such a long time to respond... but yes, I am running a thermostat, pretty sure it is a 180 degree. This setup is still completely untested, I hope the ductwork will hold up under pressure at speed, I may have to add some additional reinforcements/brackets. As far as the water pump, I'm not using a mechanical pump, I have a Deadenbear that I selected primarily for additional interior room. I have installed a digital fan and water pump controller from Davies,Craig, that will manage the operation of the electric water pump by varying the speed of the pump in response to the coolant temperature and also manages control of your electric cooling fan as needed. If you unplug or disable the water pump, the electric fan comes on immediately. There is also a cool down feature/setting to run the fan for a specified period of time after engine shutdown if needed. Again, this is all in the build stage, but not tested with a running engine. I still need to initially fire up the engine, adjust shift linkage, and I have a spare front suspension to rebuild, mine is just simply worn out. I have lot's of little things to do yet. Getting there...

Posted: **Thu Jan 24, 2019 9:06 pm**

Paul,

Can you post photos of your lines, especially the "Y" conections?

What did you use for the "Y" ?

Thanks,

Dean

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:57 pm**

Dean,

I know Paul is not using the Davies Craig pump, but this link https://daviescraig.com.au/product/ls-series-ewp-header-adaptor-8650/ls-series-ewp-header-adaptor-8650 will take you to their LS "y" connectors. What Paul is using is likely similar.

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 8:48 pm**

Thanks George!

Posted: **Sat Jan 26, 2019 11:29 am**

hi Dean ,,2nd page of this thread ,,,https://v8registryforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=253&start=10 ,,,under cooling ,, hood vents topic ,, Paul stated he is using a Meziere pump with one inlet and two outlets , he lists the part number ,, nice work on doing the conversion of race car to street car ,, i have been following on other forum
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=253&start=10 is link here

also , off topic ,, what is source of rear disc brake bracket ,, rear suspension pieces look good

Posted: **Sat Jan 26, 2019 2:36 pm**

Richard,

Thanks!

I purchased the rear disc kit from Michael Leveque which includes the brackets and the special e-brake cable that fits the Eldorado calipers.

The calipers and S-10 4WD rotors are sourced from FLAPS or Internet sellers.

Posted: **Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:25 pm**

Sorry it took so long to get back with at least an answer. My Meziere pump takes an "o-ring" AN fitting on the inlet side and 2 "o-ring" AN fittings on the outlet side. I' run an 1 1/2" AN hose to the inlet side and 2 -16AN lines on the output side. The lines (2) run in the tunnel and then connect to each head. The return uses 2 -16 AN lines (3/4") back through the tunnel to a "y" block that is available from Meziere and other suppliers and basically use the same AN adapters and return line to the radiator. I've had "0" problems with this setup, no leaks and the Davis Craig controller keeps the temperature on the mark. The controller cycles the pump as needed and also controls the dual puller fans on the radiator. The fans rarely run but the water pump will continue to run for a couple of minutes after you shut the engine off to prevent heat soak which had been a huge problem for me in the past. My radiator leans back at the top and I removed the floor pan section that would have been in front of the fuel tank. (The fuel tank is now a cell in the rear) I'm terrible about posting pictures but may try to send Rick Anderson a few of the cooling system that could be posted on my page. Hope this answers a question or two.

Posted: **Thu Feb 21, 2019 1:04 pm**

WarWagon wrote:My Crown has the normal front verticle installed radiator work performed with only the lower valance cutout for the cooling air inlet. It has the typical Crown top of the wheel wells cut out for heat evacuation. Originally only the inlet to the brass four core radiator was sealed up with shrouds/air guides and nothing else on the rear of the radiator but two electric puller fans. Now I personally never had a cooling issue while moving with thermostat outlet temp of 185-190* with a load and not moving might hit 200-205* max. I did have an issue of heat soak and not getting the temps to come back down at a reasonable time once temps hit 210+* while not moving. So I blame the all the heat soaking on the lack of a shroud on the back of the radiator covering the fans making them struggle to pull in cool air while not moving. So I cut the button of the trunk floor out in front of the fuel tank and fabbed up a quick fiberglass radiator shroud to help the fans pull air in and direct the flow down instead of out the wheel wells. Probably not great to have more air under the car than it already is pulling but I'm not going out the hood with the hot air.

.

Posted: **Thu Feb 21, 2019 1:05 pm**

WarWagon wrote:My Crown has the normal front verticle installed radiator work performed with only the lower valance cutout for the cooling air inlet. It has the typical Crown top of the wheel wells cut out for heat evacuation. Originally only the inlet to the brass four core radiator was sealed up with shrouds/air guides and nothing else on the rear of the radiator but two electric puller fans. Now I personally never had a cooling issue while moving with thermostat outlet temp of 185-190* with a load and not moving might hit 200-205* max. I did have an issue of heat soak and not getting the temps to come back down at a reasonable time once temps hit 210+* while not moving. So I blame the all the heat soaking on the lack of a shroud on the back of the radiator covering the fans making them struggle to pull in cool air while not moving. So I cut the button of the trunk floor out in front of the fuel tank and fabbed up a quick fiberglass radiator shroud to help the fans pull air in and direct the flow down instead of out the wheel wells. Probably not great to have more air under the car than it already is pulling but I'm not going out the hood with the hot air.

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Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

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Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.

Re: Front radiator and fan shroud.