Shift Tube Issues

[Goodman Alabama]

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I decided to tackle my balky shifter today, pulled the inner and outer tubes out and had problems pulling the inner shaft out. Turns out the shaft has a slight S-bend in it. After cleaning them up, I noticed a full-length inner liner or sleeve in aluminum (see pics) From what I remember the shift tube used plastic bushings. Years ago I replaced some with bronze ones from Clarks, I figured I would do the same with the shortened Crown shaft. I don't really know how I am going to get the aluminum liner out yet, I have been soaking it with penetrating oil, and will use some heat if necessary. Anyone ever seen a full length aluminum bushing before? I imagine it might have worked pretty well except for the bent shift rod. Any suggestions as to removal?
On a more positive note, I am still impressed with what I keep finding. The car was stuck in gear when I got it so I removed the plugs to make it roll easier, they all looked good. Pulled the dipstick, the oil looked like it was just changed! The car has sat for 8 years, the engine might have been last run 3 years ago but no one is certain. Pulled a valve cover, Bow-Tie heads, big valves, angle plugs, and all looked to be in excellent condition. The engine turns out to be a 350, not a 327, and I pulled the oil pan to pound dents out and found this is a 4 bolt main motor, and everything inside looks new. Parts were marked for re-assembly,typical for a re-build and it appears to have forged pistons, but not certain. I plan to put it all back together and prime the engine with a drill. The engine has an old Holley Street Dominator aluminum manifold, and some Q-jet carb that needs some attention.
Also discovered it has a 66 trans/differential and posi. The diff cover is a 1/4" plate, so I am hoping that the diff was upgraded to a 4 spider gears. Don't know the gear ratio, not even sure how to guess without counting teeth. The car also has the Crown front and rear sway bars, lower control arm bracket, not sure how to determine if it has quick turn steering arms or the Corv8 springs.
I still have to design and install a cooling system, as it was a rear cool car, and I intend to turn it into a front cool. Also have to tackle the brakes and clutch lhydraulics, plan to put in a dual master cylinder conversion, and eventually go to front discs. I need to add a clutch master cylinder, it had one towards the center of the car, (per Crown directions) but it was converted to an early Chevy truck brake/clutch master at some point. I also will add a hydraulic release bearing. I will find out the condition of the clutch when I remove the engine to install the release bearing and replace as necessary.
All in all, still happy with the car, kudos to Charlie (Glendale Troutman Jr.) for an accurate description of the car and help with loading and a couple of parts for me.
Any suggestions/comments?

thanks!

John

[Phil Dally]

While maybe not having anything to do with your exact problem I made a B&M T5 shifter work in VairyV8.

Brazed the T5 actuator knuckle socket onto the inner shift tube...tightened everything up in the entire system.

[Goodman Alabama]

Now that is pretty cool! I will definitely file away for the future reference! Great idea!

John